PFAS/PFCs: where to shop to avoid the forever chemicals in waterproof clothing

Jul 09, 2023

PFAS (also known as PFCs) are a category of synthetic chemical that are used to make man-made products waterproof. They're used in outdoor clothing for waterproofing – a job they do very well. But their use has a significant environmental impact. Here's why and what, if anything, the retailers you shop with are doing to avoid them.

When they were first developed, PFAS were a seemingly miraculous invention. It was thought that these chemicals were the only way to create a genuinely waterproof layer that prevented moisture from entering a manufactured product. It meant that they were the obvious choice for making waterproofing incredibly durable and long-lasting. They can be found in anything from non-stick cookware to takeaway boxes, carpets and toiletries.

When it comes to clothing, adding PFAS to a fabric means water beads on its surface and rolls off, rather than being absorbed.

But that 'long-lasting' quality offers a longer lifetime guarantee than initially bargained for. Known as 'forever chemicals', these synthetics can take as long as 1,000 years to degenerate. Meanwhile, they can make their way into waterways and the natural environment – including our own bodies and those of other living organisms.

Find out more about their impact below. Plus, we've examined the policies and ranges of the leading outdoor clothing brands and retailers to see which are offering alternatives to PFC waterproof gear. Some brands have entirely eliminated PFC from their ranges, while others offer consumers the choice. But some don't offer any PFC-free options at all. Scroll down to find out more.

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As well as outdoor clothing, per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are found in all sorts of common household items, including food packaging (things like bakery bags and compostable takeaway boxes), bike oil, toiletries and upholstered furniture (where they offer stain resistance). They are also found in firefighting foam.

Non-stick pans are traditionally coated with chemicals in the PFAS family, or use PFAS in their manufacture. Dark Waters, a 2019 film starring Mark Ruffalo, brought global attention to the true story of a lawyer who took on the maker of Teflon, DuPont, for polluting water in a small town in West Virginia with perfluorooctanoic acid, or PFOA.

PFOA is a long-chain PFAS (C8) that has now been linked to a wide range of serious human health issues, such as liver damage, certain cancers and reproductive problems in humans. PFOA is now globally banned. PFOS, another similar long-chain PFAS has also been globally banned.

PFAS make up a group of thousands of chemicals. Some of them, like Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), are thought to be more stable than others. But little is known about the long-term effects of some of them on the environment. And 'long-term' could be very long – known as forever chemicals, they could takemore than 1,000 years to degrade.

When PFOA, and PFOS, were banned, they were replaced with different PFCs, known as short chain PFAS (C6) in the belief that these were less harmful to the environment and to human health. However, that is no longer believed to be the case.

The Forever Pollution Project – a recent mapping project and investigation run between 18 European newsrooms, including The Guardian, has found PFAS at high levels across sites around the UK and Europe.

At one site in Belgium, levels were so high that people living within a 10-mile radius have been told not to consume eggs laid by backyard chickens or grow their own vegetables.

The highest levels in the UK were found near a chemical plant by the River Wyre, near Blackpool.

PFAS are found in water, soil and sediments and, therefore, also make their way into crops and animals. Some PFAS are bio accumulative, which means they build up in the body over time and accumulate more as you go up the food chain.

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) currently has a proposal to restrict the use of all PFAS in the EU, and a six-month consulation is about to begin. However, there are no similar plans in the UK at the moment.

As things stand, some brands have taken the decision to make their products without PFCs or have plans to phase them out.

Some outdoor clothing brands are members of the ZDHC's (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Roadmap to Zero Programme, which aims to eliminate harmful chemicals used in the fashion industry.

Its newest restricted chemical guidelines bans all PFCs from clothing and footwear. Brands that have committed to the Roadmap to Zero have phased out or will be working to phase out PFAS/PFCs and are annually assessed on their performance.

Brands can also sign up to have their products approved by Bluesign, another sustainability program that has a restricted chemicals list. From July 2024, fabrics treated with PFAS will be no longer be able to be Bluesign certified.

One thing to note is that PTFE is often used in the membranes of technical outdoor gear, including Gore-tex. PTFE itself is thought to be more stable and safer than some other PFAS. But its manufacturing process can still cause the release of harmful PFCs to the environment. Some brands say their products have a PFC-free durable water repellent layer (DWR) but make no mention of the membrane.

They may also refer to a 'PFCec-free DWR', which translates to a durable water repellent that's free of PFCs of environmental concern.

Gore-tex has come up with a PFC-free alternative for its membranes called ePE, which is currently being rolled out to certain ranges for certain brands, such as Adidas Terrex, Arc'teryx and Patagonia. Over time, this roll-out will broaden, and Gore-tex says further laminate options will be available soon.

We've looked into the PFAS/PFC policies of popular outdoor clothing brands. We've used information compiled from their websites or their sustainability reports/policies. If we haven't been able to find any information, we've assumed the brand is not PFAS/PFC-free and/or doesn't have a target to go PFAS/PFC-free. Some brands say they have an ambition to be PFC-free in the future but no definitive target.

*Fjallraven states that it is impossible to source PFAS/PFC-free zips suitable for waterproof items. Therefore, its zips are not PFC-free but nor are any others used by other brands where the zip is required to be waterproof. PFC-free claims apply to the fabrics and finishes used.

Brands seem to be in agreement that it is possible to get good waterproof/water-repellent performance using a non-PFC-based durable water repellent.

However, what you do sacrifice is the ability to repel oil and dirt as well, which is likely to mean products will need washing more frequently. This, in turn, means they may need retreating with a waterproofing treatment more frequently than a PFC-containing waterproof.

But with a little care, you should be able to have a waterproof garment that keeps you just as dry and has less impact on the environment.

If you're interested in trying to find PFAS-free options for more products such as cookware, cosmetics and furniture, you can visit PFAS-free.org.uk

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